Far North Coast NSW: Where NOT to go

North Coast NSW Insider
Tents at Arts Factory Backpackers Lodge Byron Bay. Photo Lonely Planet, Greg Elms.
Tents at the Arts Factory Backpackers Lodge Byron Bay.
“The one-time base for the legendary 1970s experimental Aquarius Festival, is today nothing more than a sad collection of faded buildings and spaced-out junkies.”
North Coast NSW Insider

Mind-numbing Nimbin

I'll probably be lambasted for this, but in all honesty, unless you want to buy pot, there's not much reason to go to Nimbin. Australia's most famous hippie destination has long-lost its lustre as the countercultural hotspot. The one-time base for the legendary 1970s experimental Aquarius Festival, is today nothing more than a sad collection of faded buildings and spaced-out junkies. If you want artsy and alternative, The Channon and Mullumbimby are both vastly superior.

Mullim

While Mullim, which is just up the track from Byron Bay, is a little too close to the main tourist drag for some, The Channon is a quiet little village tucked away in the rainforest draped hills of the hinterland, around 20km from Lismore. Go there on market day if you can (held on the second Sunday of the month) and fill up on fresh organic produce, have your tarot cards read or your chakra realigned. It's also a good base to explore Nightcap National Park and, in particular, Protestors Falls, so named because it was saved from logging by protestors.

Byron Bay at Christmas? Forget it!

Unless your idea of fun in the sun is heaving crowds, traffic jams and drunken louts, whatever you do don't be tempted to visit Byron Bay during the summer holidays (or the Easter long weekend, for that matter!). The town literally bursts at the seams with kombi loads of surfers, schoolies, backpackers, hippies, ferals, trendies, yuppies, yobbos and any other kinds of blow-ins clogging up the streets and overrunning the beaches.

The long line of traffic entering Byron from Ewingsdale Road often comes to a grinding halt during the peak summer period (tip: to avoid bursting your boiler, enter Byron via St Helena/Bangalow Road). With so many people pulling into town, you'll find it hard to score a bed and even if you do the prices are absolutely insane. So do what the locals do and stay clear. Mind you, if you visit Byron at any other time of year, you'll think you've found your own personal patch of paradise.

The not-so-artsy Arts Factory

More a state of mind, than a state of being the Arts Factory Backpacker's Lodge in Byron Bay relies on its overinflated past reputation to draw in the crowds. Instead of the promised "experience of a lifetime", this one-time old piggery which lays claim to being the "birthplace" of the "fame" and "spirit" of Byron, delivers overpriced, overhyped, cramped accommodation and an experience that is anything but groovy.

Don't get me wrong, the facilities are good — there's a restaurant/nightclub, spa, cinema, table tennis, basketball, volleyball as well as a heated pool and sauna — but the obsessive requests for IDs and deposits for everything from sheets and blankets to pots, pans and even for a mug so you can have a cup of coffee is really irritating (not to mention the newly reopened Buddha Bar/Restaurant is a haven for families with screaming children). A much more laid-back place to stay is Atlantic Guesthouse. Less than a 10-minute walk from Main Beach, it's a much more chilled experience.

Got any more places to avoid? Have your say using the comments form below.

Next: Near the beaten track

User comments
I've stayed in the Arts Factory many many times over the years and love the place! The atmosphere the Arts Factory offers is second to none and i think the origninal Byron Bay vibe is well and truely alive. I realize the deposit may be a slight inconvience to some but its just a part of life for most backpackers due to high likely hood of things going 'missing.' The Buddha Bar & Arts Factory, while only a 5 minute walk from town is like a little hidden paridise from most passers-by and this keeps the place a little bit of a local secret and the calm chilled atmosphere that its famious for. i guess it all comes down to personal opinion in the end, some people love it some people hate it.....same goes with this artical!
I would just like to say, that i grew up in nimbin and lived there for 18 years, and i have never touched weed once. It is a boring cliche about Nimbin that people need to get over, and Byron is amazing and a must see to anyone visiting the northcoast. If these areas are places not worth seeing, putting them up here is only giving them more publicity.
I went to Australia for 3 months. One of the last places I went to was Byron Bay for a week. I stayed in the Art Factory and I loved it, I didn't want to leave. It was amazing. If I went back to Australia again, Byron Bay would be the first place I'd go to and would definately stay in Art Factory again!!!
Do not stay at the Bryon Lakeside Apartments unless you like blood on your sheets and a dirty floor and a filthy Kitchen, not to mention the broken bathroom and terrible staff.
Ummm... maybe read the sign on the way in, "Biggest little town in Australia.. MULLUMBIMBY". Plus it has the Patria Thomas pool.
I had really great pizza from the pizza shop in Nimbin once and also brought some beautiful hand painted eggs for my family for Easter there (not at the pizza shop) I never saw any junkies and yes I was offered 'special' cookied from a lady who was not threatening at all. We declined her offer and she wished us a safe trip home. We had a look through the Hemp Musem where we and a few other tourists were cornered by a young girl on roller skates who insisted on putting on a skate dance show for us and then asked us to put money in her hat. This was the closest we can to being scammed all weekend & I'm sure she wasnt high. Nimbin's nice & quiet, virtually no traffic, the people seemed friendly enough although there isnt a whole heap of things to do. It's not DreamWorld after all. We stayed in the caravan park in a nice little van and that is one holiday I will always look back on with fond memories. Go to Nimbin with an open mind, dont expect too much, you might have a nice trip!
I lived just near Nimbin for three years, if you want heroin, speed or pot, it's a fantastic holiday spot, there is nothing relaxing about it if your not on drugs, it is a hole with a very dark feel about it.
When are people going to realise that the only reason cannibis is labeled as a drug is because of prohibition it is actually a potent herb that was put here by god for us to use in whatever way we see fit, just because a feeble minded few use it too much does not change this fact,I have been walking down Ann street in the Valley district in Brisbane and have been offered harder substances than cannibis but this fails to make it into the travel info doesn`t it ?
It`s good to see that everybody is beleiving the hype the media are putting out about Nimbin just goes to show how ignorant your average joe is about the potent herb, so what if there are a few junkies, everyone goes on about how livable Brisbane is and how it`s a great place to have a holiday but hey it too has heaps of junkies lots more than in Nimbin but no-one meantions this in the travel blogs do they. Don`t beleive the hype people Nimbin is still THE alternative culture hotspot in the whole of Australia.
Kim's observations about Nimbin are spot-on. The best thing that could happen to this town would be for somebody to drop a bomb on it and wipe it off the face of the planet. Drugs have certainly taken their toll on this joint, pardon the pun, and every visitor I've spoken to who has visited Nimbin can't wait to get out of the place. It's dirty, stuck in a time warp and offers absolutely nothing except the chance to see some junkie nodding off in the main street!!!!

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